Base Camp - 14,440ft/4,400m Base Camp in 2004         Base Camp in 2005 after storm

"Playa Ancha" (Broad beach)

The trek from Confluencia to Base Camp involves a very long stretch known as "Broad Beach".

This long flat approach follows the river for 2/3 of the trek. Just when you are getting tired and ready for a rest, the terrain changes dramatically from flat plain to an undulating ascent. This is when you'll first start really feeling the altitude. Many hikers will find this one of the most challenging parts of the climb, simply because they will not have had much chance to adjust to the altitude.

Unguided climbers are advised to stay to the right (east) side of the braided river during the approach and not to follow the path of the mules. Those who cross the river at a shallow point will likely have to cross back when it is much deeper and possibly dangerous. Note also that weather conditions can dramatically change the flow of the river. Cold dry weather leaves many branches of the stream dry, but a rainstorm or warm morning can make passages more difficult.

There are four major bends in the right valley wall on the ascent (actually 5 but the third and fourth are right together). These can be a little discouraging since staying on the right of the valley and with the terrain rising in the distance it can appear that the final ascent is just around the corner.

Base Camp is a small city of approximately 100 tents. It includes semi- permanent tents for storage and cooking for the guide companies, structures for the rangers, outhouses, and many tents for climbers.

Penitentes in the valley between base camp and the hotel          A little practice climb on one of the penitentes

The day after arriving in Base Camp is a rest day for most hikers. Unless you are unwell, plan to visit the "penitentes", which are snow and ice formations. Small pyramids of ice appear to form in the dry climate by melting and rapid evaporation. Some can be tall enough for a fun short climb with crampons and ice axes. Our trip did a bit of training with crampons on the glacier to prepare for climbing with crampons later on summit day. If you do not have prior experience with crampons, this is a good idea. Crampons are not at all difficult, but when you are exhausted and hypoxic it's not a good time to try anything new.

Hotel near base camp (Photo credit: Eldon Boone)

There is a hotel which is about a 30 minute walk from base camp, past the penitentes. It is the result of curious government tourist project. It appears that the concessioner, freed from the cost of the investment, is just able to make the enterprise work. The hotel actually has a terrestrial phone line pay phone, and calls to the US are about $.50/min. This is a real bargain compared to the sattellite phones available at base camp for about $5/min. The hotel phone is a little tricky. If you dial the number too quickly after depositing coins, it will not complete the call. You have to wait about 30 seconds. The hotel has proper toilets that one can use for free, and a shower with towel for $10. Some hikers may also opt to stay at the hotel. It is unheated, and may actually be colder than a tent, but you get a bed out of the dust and wind of camp.

Base camp has a wide variety of services including a bar, internet cafe, gift shop of sorts, and showers. The shower (in 2005 and 2006) was $10, up from $7 in 2004. That sounds absurd, but it will seem like a great deal after you've washed off days of dirt and grime.

The water at base camp comes from a glacial stream. It is a bit cloudy with silt, but safe and pleasant to drink. During my trip I did not treat or filter water, and was fine, despite the fact that I have found myself sensitive to poor quality water in the past. It still may be prudent to filter or treat your water though.

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